How do we define art? An artist can create specific objects or performances intended to evoke a particular feeling in people. When does fashion transcend its boundaries? Designers can draw inspiration from what they see and observe in society. After this anthropological exploration, at what point does the magic happen? Did some of the garments from the SS26 Women's Fashion Week become works of art?
Schiaparelli
Surrealism has obsessed the House of Schiaparelli since its inception, its inspirations drawn primarily from art such as Salvador Dalí and Dadaism. The brand creates its collections based on the anatomy of the body, adding faces to its bags, attaching an ear to a long necklace, and exploring the shape of the eye. Passionate about innovation and the avant-garde, Schiaparelli challenges conservative fashion by separating two often-linked concepts: beauty and luxury. Its approach to luxury is experimental, yet remains elegant and, above all, historical. The SS26 women's ready-to-wear collection features clutches without handles; the only way to wear them is to embrace their prototype of a golden hand. The word "accessory" has different definitions: one characterizes it as a non-essential item, while another defines it as an object necessary for a theatrical performance; in both cases, the accessory is added after the main element. The glossy, plasticized headwear with its original shapes completely transforms the silhouette; materials become materials, challenging our perception of the notion of "desirable – undesirable." Daniel Rosebury's conception of art transcends reality; while art is glorified in numerous ways (museums, auctions, exhibitions), he democratizes its needs and properties. Schiaparelli succeeds in creating a moment of curiosity and admiration.
Balmain
The house has always had a different approach to fashion and craftsmanship, full of audacity and optimism, and committed to progress. Olivier Rousteing draws inspiration from the house's prestigious heritage to embellish his creations with exceptional materials. Balmain creates art like a sculptor carves stone; the house has incorporated seashells and stones into its collection to evoke a story centered around the beach and nature. From a distance, fitted shell dresses appear to be knit dresses; a slightly crumpled top is actually a bust molded from sand or a rock carved in its entirety—too unique and conceptual for everyday wear. The house treats all materials as raw material ready to be molded into innovative concepts. Nowhere else can you find creations of this kind, simultaneously sculptures and evening gowns.
Summer
Zomer is a brand that embraces excess but disregards the notion of conventional correctness. Created in 2023 by the vibrant duo Danial Aitouganov and Imruh Asha, everything different is subject to value judgment: its utility, its political or moral implications, its artistic merit, and so on. The brand emphasizes a profound connection between art and contemporary culture, between experimental silhouettes, audacity, and subversion. Challenging conventional principles and championing a creative, free, and playful spirit, "good" and "beautiful" work can rhyme with fun, lightness, surprise, and novelty. Zomer's art is defined as a specific staging designed to create a particular state. "Zomer emphasizes a deep connection with contemporary art and culture... a sense of childlike playfulness with avant-garde sophistication" – Zomer. The two designers enjoy playing with the unexpected by deconstructing reality; proportions are disregarded, the properties of objects are ignored, and messages are hidden. Their art simplifies and democratizes fashion, particularly luxury, with a touch of humor and absurdity.
Hodakova
The brand was founded in 2021 by Ellen Hodakova Larsson in Sweden. "Materials that usually serve as an accessory now become the main attraction," says Hodakova. Her fashion is ethical and innovative; Ellen Hodakova transforms materials with properties far removed from those traditionally defined by fashion into accessories and embellishments. Ordinary objects pique her curiosity, and her audacity drives her to redefine the codes of conventional correctness. The Swedish designer combines the principle of sustainability with the element of surprise, telling fantastical stories. Awarded the LVMH Prize in 2024 for her inventiveness, she alters conventional silhouettes with less conventional objects. The SS26 collection uses umbrella frames, old books, bags, and belts; her creative process draws inspiration from history, such as the Renaissance (wooden heels), or from artistic movements like Marcel Duchamp's "readymade." The collection is called Conventional 112509, an indistinguishable name that provokes confusion, yet evokes a political message. The show is a sensory experience pushed to its extreme: sight is stimulated, objects make noise as they rub together, and their textures can be surprising, as some objects are old and/or dismantled. The designer creates art by allowing the viewer to shift their perspective on the construction of a garment; she bases her work on a highly architectural conception of fashion.
Maison Margiela
Maison Margiela is an enigmatic and mysterious brand; its shows skirt the line between art and fashion, incorporating innovative concepts and imperfect forms. This year, the orthodontist's accessory is at the heart of the controversy. Models wore a metallic object that fits into the mouth, allowing it to be kept open effortlessly. This raises the question: does fashion become art when it conveys meaning? Many artists express themselves through personal messages, making viewers feel more connected and involved. The object is full of unspoken meanings; its ends recall the rectangular stitching of the label, which has become a symbol for the house. The show is accompanied by an orchestra composed entirely of children. However, the pieces played sound off-key; the chords are not yet mastered. The music, the fourth art, fails to fulfill its primary function; it is unsettling and experimental. Does it represent the cries of mannequins with their mouths open? This orthodontist's object is a nod to the values of the House: discretion and mystery.
Comme des Garçons
Comme des Garçons questions the "art of beauty" and the "taste for ugliness." The collection is called "After the Dust." What dust? What does it analyze? The artistic character transcends the aesthetics and/or functionality of the garment; it's a concept. The silhouettes are asymmetrical, bulbous, and imperfect, a reflection of human error. The models seem to have returned from afar, bearing the weight of their past and having undergone transformations. The color palette is muted and dusty. Comme des Garçons presents the collection of "the aftermath," after a time of crisis, a war, and a moment of hope: what do we look like? We are heavy, deconstructed and then reconstructed, filled with memories, nostalgia, and experiences. The details are raw, the finishes clean yet delicate; embroidery or satin bring an unexpected softness. His art is conceptual and crude; this style conveys a message, it loses its main function and invites the viewer to engage in moralistic reflection.
