What did we think of Milan Fashion Week AW26/27?
The city of Milan was abuzz with its annual February Fashion Week, which focused on roots and identity. In the heart of a highly cosmopolitan world, certain trends are widening the gaps between cultures. We observed various messages conveying individualistic values. Some brands, like Gucci and Moschino, are fleeing the instability of societal, political, and environmental movements and reconnecting with their roots and origins. Other houses, like Diesel and Prada, champion irregularity and the contrast between our diverse identities. The models walked the runway with an attitude that individualized them in the face of society's gaze: each one unique and independent, directly confronted with their tastes, which evolve throughout their lives.
Diesel
Diesel once again embraces its offbeat extravagance, a departure from the glamorous image of Italy. The collection draws inspiration from the phrase "dirty stop out," a reference to our late nights that stretch into the early hours. Diesel reinterprets our after-party outfits, often deconstructed and sometimes even embarrassing, as a statement of what we now call modern style. Diesel's fashion is controversial because it doesn't champion the ideals traditionally held by society. The brand imbues each cut and each look with a specific intention: it overturns conventions, always with the aim of liberating social mores.
Moschino
Moschino's collection revolves around memory, nostalgia, and childhood. Amidst a mound of earth, the models wear color and, above all, patterns. These patterns tell the story of a man, perhaps even an identity: that of Adrian Appiolaza. The Argentinian-born creative director of Moschino revisited his childhood memories to design a very feminine collection, imbued with tailoring codes and Hispanic details. The designer surprises us with each look, as none are truly alike; they seem almost discordant, creating a captivating rhythm. The collection rekindles childhood memories: the bits of string we used to tie knots with, the colors of the park where we could finally feel free. Adrian resonates with something deeply personal: as everything seems to crumble around us, the only things we can still defend are our origins and, above all, our mixed heritage.
Avavav
Avavav approaches the problem from the opposite direction. What if it were no longer the guests watching the show, but the models? In a single room, models stand frozen, devoid of emotion. The guests cross the room one by one, slightly surprised and disoriented as they wander around the new collection. The element of surprise is guaranteed, but it raises a more significant issue: the "female gaze." This is a broad term, the meaning of which varies depending on the context and the speaker. A gaze is, by definition, subjective and unique to each individual's perspective. Avavav's discourse is based on this notion quite literally, by reversing the roles. The collection doesn't impose a point of view; it suggests that if one exists, its opposite is equally valid.
Prada
Prada embraces plurality and offers a reflection on the different facets of a woman as well as the complexity of life. A question often comes to mind: "How do we find our place?" And by what means can we assert it in society? Starting from the premise that nothing is permanent and that tastes become as ephemeral as a trend, how can we dress and align ourselves best with our moods and desires? Prada embodies a fashion strongly marked by an unstable and eclectic identity, because choices have become as complex as the moments we live. The house does not confuse simplicity with complexity: it transforms perspectives throughout the show with a wardrobe that is both simple and elegant.
Gucci
Demna's Gucci show is rooted in the history of Gucci and Italy. "Everything you could say about a human being, you can say about Gucci. I see Gucci as a person," reads Demna's statement. In a way, Demna has imbued each period of the brand's history with an awareness of its emotions and states of mind. Through this return to its roots, the ateliers tell Gucci's story in a less glamorous, but more authentic and sensory way: "I don't want it to be intellectual, but I want Gucci to be a feeling." Demna plays with instinct and the feeling of déjà vu, which is more unifying than a simple criterion of beauty. He doesn't seek to create beauty, but to represent reality as it is, including drawing inspiration from both good and bad human habits. The collection functions like a film script that the actor must make their own to create emotion. Each model embodies a character as particular and unique as her outfit.
By understanding the intentions of these different houses, Milan Fashion Week seems to have highlighted a shared urgency: the need to redefine identity. Whether raw and provocative at Diesel, intimate and nostalgic at Moschino, conceptual at Avavav, or multifaceted at Prada, it questions our relationship to perception, our origins, our contradictions, and our place in an unstable world. More than a succession of trends, these shows reflect a need for authenticity and personal expression. Each house champions the idea that identity is neither fixed nor linear.
