Fashion Week SS26 marks the beginning of a new era for many brands. They are breaking free from the codes of reality to create imaginary worlds that represent transmission, a change of scenery, and travel within their aesthetics.
Burberry
During London Fashion Week SS26, Burberry transformed its catwalk into an earthen walkway. A painted marquee representing the British sky contrasted with the dusty, earthy color of the floor. A unique atmosphere emerged, with Burberry immersing its guests completely thanks to the music of the show. Daniel Lee wanted to pay homage to the great British music festivals of the 60s. Fashion during this period underwent a major stylistic shift, influenced by popular culture and British music. Festivals became spaces for expression and freedom, giving rise to a more eclectic, colorful, unconventional, and rock-inspired style. The seats were earth-toned cubes, as the audience's gaze was meant to take in the entire space. The recreation was as realistic as possible; the music filled the space, and the guests embarked on a journey back in time.
Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta's artisanal history is rich and precious; "it is where hand and heart unite," according to Louise Trotter. The brand expresses itself through an ethical language, and research and development have always been integral to the House's journey. This season, Bottega has decided to enrich its creativity and discipline by working with lighter and more responsible materials; jackets and skirts are made from recycled fiberglass. A striking detail: the guest seating consists of colorful Murano glass cubes designed to reflect light, created by the Milanese studio 6:AM. Suspended, woven works by Korean artist Kwangho Lee adorn the room with light, fluid movements that sway in the breeze. The white room symbolizes freshness and new beginnings; the House is embarking on a new chapter without abandoning its roots.
FENDI
The surreal setting plunges guests into confusion, disorienting them. This colorful and imaginative journey brings a playful and lighthearted aspect to the SS26 women's ready-to-wear collection, which is nonetheless very formal and well-tailored. A stylistic contrast is felt between discipline and whimsy. Randomly constructed staircases become the guests' seating, while the color palette is coordinated with the garments: pale red, cyan blue, mustard yellow, and a dusty purple. Fendi creates an atmosphere reminiscent of a video game, tinged with light and pastel colors, offering a unique reinterpretation of the art of tailoring.
Chanel
The most anticipated show of Fashion Week SS26 was orchestrated by Mathieu Blazy, formerly of Bottega Veneta. Chanel's sets have always been praised for their impressive scale and creativity; whether recreating a beach, a space station, or a bucolic garden, the House invites guests on a surreal journey. They were immersed in a cosmic universe composed of large, brightly colored planets. "For this first Chanel show, I wanted to create something quite universal, like a dream, something timeless, and I was fascinated by the universe of stars, a theme so dear to the House. We all observe the same sky…" explains Mathieu Blazy. It's clear, quite literally, that the House is transitioning from one artistic universe to another, achieving a transfer of expertise that has greatly pleased fashion critics.
Dior
A new artistic director calls for a new set design. The watchword for this show is "deciphering," and Jonathan has dissected the entire history of Dior to preserve its heritage while innovating techniques. The atmosphere is calm and quiet, the color palette neutral, everything focused on the garments. Yet, the space is highly architectural and geometric, the seats are cubic and rigorously aligned, and an inverted pyramid illuminates the room. A mystical and futuristic ambiance emanates from this space. The set design illustrates the evolution of the House and Jonathan's need to look towards its future.
Alaïa
Alaïa is an elegant fashion house, inspired by a radical and simple beauty, yet not devoid of inventiveness and innovation; its philosophy is felt in every show. This year, the SS26 collection is presented at the Cartier Foundation. The floor is an immense screen displaying short, silent videos, as well as slow, close-up portraits of the models on the runway. The set design includes a mirror that stretches across the entire ceiling, reflecting the models' elegant movements and the videos. Guests feel as if they are in a cube, but also in a frozen, timeless moment. The house is fascinated by eyes, whether deep turquoise blue or piercing black; the show becomes hypnotic, the atmosphere mysterious, and Alaïa reveals a touch of intimacy.
Rick Owens
The Palais de Tokyo remains the venue for Rick Owens' avant-garde vision. A large metal sculpture, which the models climb, overlooks the fountain. They storm the fountain as if in a moment of crisis; Rick Owens illustrates a fractured and dark world that prevents the models from walking safely. The show is unique; the clothes get wet during the performance because the models have no choice but to walk through the fountain. The designer has a very personal and unique vision of what a fashion show should be and convey. The set design has transcended its primary function; it is not merely a backdrop, but an integral part of the designer's creative process.
Louboutin
Louboutin ushers in a new era with Jaden Smith at the helm of menswear artistic direction. The show was a truly colorful and kitschy spectacle, staged by David LaChapelle. He reinterpreted iconic elements of American football in the most realistic way possible: cheerleaders, the field, and the football itself. At Louboutin, fashion isn't confined to the traditional catwalk; it must be playful and spectacular. The sports arena featured an XXL cake at its center, legs replaced candles, and a contemporary dance performance by the group Asphalt enlivened the event. The House went all out. American influences were palpable; the fusion of the two cultures created a vibrant show in Louboutin's signature style.
