Where does art begin, and where does fashion end? Both seek to evoke emotion, to challenge perceptions, to give form to an idea. Designers observe the world, interpret it in their own way, and then transform it, until the magic happens. At that precise moment, fashion transcends its function to become art. Schiaparelli, Zomer, and Balmain brilliantly illustrate this: their recent collections borrow from the artistic vocabulary to unsettle, amaze, and redefine the boundaries of fashion design.
Maison Schiaparelli
Surrealism has obsessed the House of Schiaparelli since its inception, and its inspirations are primarily drawn from art (Salvador Dalí, Dadaism). Passionate about innovation and avant-garde design, Schiaparelli challenges the conservative fashion world with an experimental approach to luxury. The Spring/Summer 2026 women's ready-to-wear collection features handleless clutches designed to be held hand in hand – the only way to wear them is by interlacing the gilded metal fingers that adorn the accessory. Artistic director Daniel Rosebury's style is conceptual: his garments transcend their primary function to invite the viewer to critical reflection. He creates glossy, plasticized headwear in original shapes that completely transform the silhouette; materials become materials, challenging our perception of the notion of "desirable/undesirable." The designer's collections transcend reality: he glorifies art in a different way, showcasing his creations on a catwalk rather than in a museum. Schiaparelli manages to create a moment that stimulates curiosity and compels admiration.
Balmain
Balmain has always distinguished itself with a unique approach to fashion, full of audacity and optimism, driven by a commitment to innovation. Olivier Rousteing draws inspiration from the prestigious heritage of the fashion house to elevate his creations with exceptional materials. Like a sculptor carving stone, he meticulously crafts his dresses: shells and stones adorn the latest collection, which seems to emerge poetically from the beach and nature. From a distance, the shell-encrusted dresses appear to be made of knitwear, and a slightly crumpled top gives the impression that the bust is molded from sand. The luxury house considers each material as a raw material to be transformed into an innovative concept. Only Balmain offers us a spectacle in which the garment is simultaneously sculpture and evening gown.
© Gorunway
SUMMER
Zomer is a brand that embraces excess, disregarding the notion of conventional correctness. Created in 2023 by a colorful duo – Danial Aitouganov and Imruh Asha – the label emphasizes the profound connection between creativity and contemporary culture, blending experimental silhouettes, audacity, and subversion. It delights in challenging conventional principles and championing a creative, free, and playful spirit. Zomer's art is defined as a specific staging designed to create a particular state of mind. The two designers enjoy playing with the unexpected by deconstructing reality: proportions are disregarded, the properties of objects are ignored, and messages are concealed. Their styling simplifies and democratizes fashion, particularly luxury, with a touch of humor and absurdity.
HODAKOVA
Founded in 2021 by Ellen Hodakova Larsson, the Swedish brand champions ethical and innovative fashion, transforming materials with unusual properties into accessories and embellishments. Ordinary objects, however mundane, have always piqued her curiosity, and her audacity drives her to redefine the codes of conventional fashion. The Swedish designer combines sustainability with the element of surprise, weaving fantastical narratives. The Spring/Summer 2026 collection repurposes umbrella ribs, old books, bags, and belts to create pieces that intrigue both visually and tactilely: some antique or dismantled objects produce a rustling sound, and their unexpected touch can be startling. Through this work, the designer conceives of fashion as architecture, inviting the viewer to reinvent their perception of clothing.
© Villa Eugenie
Maison Margiela
Margiela remains an enigmatic and mysterious brand whose shows blur the line between art and fashion, incorporating innovative concepts and imperfect forms. This year, an orthodontic accessory sparked controversy: a metallic object evoking the "Four Stitches"—the brand's four emblematic stitches—was inserted into the models' mouths, holding them open. The show was accompanied by an orchestra composed entirely of children, and the melodies sounded off-key, the chords not yet mastered. Disturbing and experimental, the music failed to fulfill its primary function. Was it meant to represent the models' open-mouthed cries? As for the metallic object, open to multiple interpretations, it became a destabilizing nod to the Margiela brand's values of discretion and mystery.
Comme des Garçons
Comme des Garçons questions the "art of beauty" and the "taste for ugliness." The collection is called "After the Dust." But what dust?... The artistic character transcends the aesthetics and functionality of the garment: each piece becomes a concept. The silhouettes are asymmetrical, bulbous, and approximate, like a reflection of human imperfection. The models seem to have returned from afar, bearing the weight of their past and having undergone transformations. The tones are muted and dusty. Comme des Garçons presents the collection of "the aftermath": after a time of crisis, after a war, what do we look like? We are heavy, deconstructed, then we rebuild ourselves, filled with memories, nostalgia, and experiences. At Comme des Garçons, fashion conveys a message, moving away from its primary function and inviting the viewer to moral reflection.
There is no longer sewing or framing, no longer a catwalk or a museum: only forms, ideas, gestures. Art inspires fashion, fashion inspires art – until they become one. From Schiaparelli to Comme des Garçons, each designer weaves a narrative where clothing becomes symbol, the body becomes matter, and the gaze, a tool for contemplation. Fashion, when it dares, no longer simply dresses: it tells a story, it questions, it moves us. And perhaps that is where its greatest work lies.
