WHAT IF THIS WAS THE REAL BISTRONOMY?
Nestled on a small square in the Belleville district, this new address takes its name from Romain Gary's alias, Émile Ajar. The author had made this working-class neighborhood the setting for his famous Goncourt Prize-winning novel, The Life Before Us.

Once you step inside, you're greeted by exposed brick, a warm-toned ceramic bar, 1950s mosaic tiles, and a matte, bluish facade that conceals the kitchens. The setting is minimalist, simple, and tasteful. But it wasn't a quest for purity or literature that brought us here… it was rather this pickled gherkin spritz, whose acidity gently invigorates us as an aperitif.

The festivities continue with comforting polenta fries and sorrel mayonnaise. Then comes a touch of freshness with a raw oyster topped with fresh ginger, Sauternes jelly, and a welcome guanciale. We'd gladly have a second, but we must move on to the equally refreshing scallop carpaccio with beetroot, seaweed caviar, and buckwheat tuiles.

The daring venison shank is accompanied by butternut tagliatelle with a spicy hot sauce. Then finally comes dessert, which is largely responsible for our visit and which truly intrigues us: a sundae with chicken skin ice cream, caramel, chestnut shortbread, and that very unusual thyme-infused whipped cream that evokes memories of Sunday family desserts.

Completely won over, we didn't hesitate for a second to order a second sundae, this time a rocket sorbet with a "hole" made with gin and bergamot limoncello. Because in addition to offering truly creative cuisine that is fun and entertaining, both for the taste buds and the palate, Ajar offers a very reasonable price range that will appeal to everyone. Ideal after the extravagant spending of the holidays.

AJAR
34, RUE SAINTE-MARTHE, PARIS 10TH
@AJARPARIS