Arles, the multifaceted city, which appeals to amateur artists as much as to curious tourists.
Arles is a Provençal town steeped in a rich artistic history. From Roman architecture to Van Gogh, this small town subtly awakens our curiosity with extraordinary places that still lie dormant on either side of its narrow streets. At the beginning of summer, the Photography Festival takes over all the town's cultural spaces, allowing photography enthusiasts to wander through every corner. As they explore, visitors are surprised by the discovery of traditional and more modern restaurants, as well as record shops and museums that celebrate artistic diversity.
The Counter at the Grand Hotel Nord Pinus
In the heart of the legendary Place du Forum, Le Comptoir du Grand Hôtel Nord-Pinus has established itself as a new must-visit destination for lovers of wine, gastronomy, and the art of living. Located on the ground floor of Arles' iconic hotel, this independent bar extends the legendary spirit of the place, offering a refined yet relaxed experience, open to both travelers and locals. In a warm atmosphere where contemporary design interacts with the building's history, Le Comptoir showcases a carefully curated selection of wines, accompanied by sharing plates created around the finest products of Provence and the Camargue. At the helm of the kitchen, Italian chef Antonio Altamura presents a menu inspired by the seasons, subtly blending his Italian roots with the flavors of the Arles region. The menu evolves with the availability of fresh ingredients and the chef's inspiration, making each visit a new discovery. More than just a wine bar, Le Comptoir is part of the revival of Nord-Pinus, an institution frequented over the decades by Pablo Picasso, Jean Cocteau, Ernest Hemingway, and Maria Callas. True to this tradition of encounters and conviviality, the establishment has rediscovered its role as a meeting place where artists, locals, and visitors mingle in an elegant yet unpretentious atmosphere. Whether for an after-work drink, a quick dinner, or a moment with friends before strolling through the streets of Arles, Le Comptoir embodies a contemporary vision of Provençal hospitality: generous, creative, and deeply rooted in the city's history.
10 rue de la Liberté, Arles, France
Oleti
Just steps from the Roman Arena, on the discreet Place Voltaire, Oleti has quickly established itself as one of Arles' most charming spots. A true hub of activity, it's a place where people come as much to savor generous cuisine as to curl up with a good book in the middle of the afternoon. Behind this welcoming establishment, Coline and her team cultivate a simple philosophy: to welcome everyone as if they were at home and to offer honest cuisine that respects the seasons and local producers. The intentionally concise menu changes with the availability of fresh ingredients and gives pride of place to homemade recipes, often vegetarian, always inspired by the flavors of the Mediterranean and cuisines from around the world. Fragrant curries, seasonal vegetables, Camargue rice, homemade pastries, and specialty coffee make up an offering that is as indulgent as it is comforting, perfect for lunch or a coffee break on the terrace. Large communal tables encourage gatherings, while the sun-drenched terrace invites you to slow down and enjoy the Arlesian way of life. This understated simplicity, combined with quality cuisine, makes Oleti a favorite with both locals and visitors alike. Like Arles itself, Oleti is a contemporary eatery where people come not only to enjoy good food, but above all to rediscover that rare feeling of being warmly welcomed.
35 rue Voltaire, Arles, France
Cruise
Located on Boulevard Émile-Combes, just minutes from the historic center, Croisière has established itself as a key venue on Arles' cultural scene. Conceived in 2018 by Françoise Nyssen and Jean-Paul Capitani, this hybrid space brings together artists, residents, and visitors each summer around an eclectic program that blends exhibitions, concerts, screenings, talks, performances, and festive events. Designed as a true living space, Croisière transcends the simple framework of an exhibition. Its open-air theater, exhibition spaces, bookstore, open-air café, and terraces invite visitors to linger from morning till night. The diversity of artistic offerings makes this site a crossroads of contemporary creation, fostering exchanges between disciplines and audiences in a convivial atmosphere. Each season, the venue renews its program, showcasing both emerging artists and established figures on the international scene. During the Rencontres d'Arles photography festival, Croisière becomes a favorite haunt for photography enthusiasts, while maintaining its own unique identity, open to all forms of artistic expression. The experience extends to the open-air café, offering generous Mediterranean cuisine prepared with local ingredients. Croisière now embodies a new way of experiencing Arles: a free, welcoming, and creative space, where people come as much to discover artworks as to enjoy the city's vibrant summer atmosphere.
65 Boulevard Émile Combes, Arles, France
Thistle
In Arles, a stone's throw from the Roman Arena, Chardon is shaking up the traditional restaurant scene. More than just a restaurant, it's a true culinary laboratory where, throughout the season, a succession of chefs from diverse backgrounds take over. Each chef spends several weeks creating a unique cuisine, inspired by local Provençal produce and their own gastronomic vision. Conceived by Julia Mitton, Harry Cummins, and Laura Vidal, Chardon has been celebrating creativity, encounters, and sharing since 2016. Here, there's no fixed menu: the menus evolve with the seasons, the harvests, and the inspiration of the guest chefs. Each meal becomes a unique, irreplaceable experience, where local products converse with influences from around the world. The establishment prioritizes a demanding approach to local produce, enhanced by a carefully curated selection of natural wines. This philosophy has won over the Michelin Guide inspectors, who praise the freshness of the offerings and the quality of the ingredients. Whether you're a food enthusiast or simply curious, Chardon offers an extraordinary culinary experience. With each new residency, the restaurant reinvents itself and invites its guests to return and discover a new story, told through its dishes. A must-visit for experiencing Arles in a different way, following the seasons and the talents that flourish there.
37 rue des Arènes, Arles, France
Lee Ufan Museum
Just steps from the Place du Forum, the Hôtel Vernon houses one of Arles' most unique contemporary art spaces. Inaugurated in 2022, the permanent collection of Korean artist Lee Ufan is housed in a private mansion dating from the 16th to the 18th centuries. The space offers nearly 1,350 square meters of exhibition areas where architecture, light, and artworks engage in a remarkable, understated dialogue. A leading figure of the Mono-ha movement ("the school of things"), Lee Ufan has been developing a body of work for over fifty years based on the relationship between materials, space, and time. Stone, steel, wood, canvas, and emptiness compose a minimalist visual language that invites visitors to slow down, observe, and feel. Here, the experience of art is as much physical as it is meditative, each room offering a silent encounter with matter and light. Conceived as a living space, Lee Ufan Arles also hosts temporary exhibitions, concerts, talks, workshops, and events that extend the dialogue between art, philosophy, and the environment. By choosing Arles, a city of creation where ancient heritage and contemporary art coexist, Lee Ufan situates his work within a constantly evolving territory. The abstract representations denounce the materialism of modern times through the depiction of undefined forms. The sculptures interact with spatial perception and the physical experience between the visitor and the artist's work. Lee Ufan Arles is an invitation to contemplation, introspection, and slowness, offering a contemplative interlude.
5, rue Vernon, Arles, France
Vincent Van Gogh Foundation Arles
In the heart of Arles' historic center, the Vincent van Gogh Foundation showcases the legacy of one of art history's most iconic artists. Housed in the elegant Hôtel Léautaud de Donines, a fully restored 15th-century building, it does not, however, hold any of the painter's works on permanent display. Its mission lies elsewhere: to keep his spirit alive through an ongoing dialogue between his work and contemporary art. Since its opening in 2014, the Foundation has established itself as a leading institution on the international art scene. Each season, it presents major exhibitions featuring exceptional loans of paintings by Vincent van Gogh alongside works by modern and contemporary artists that extend or challenge his legacy. This ambitious program explores the themes dear to the painter: color, light, nature, and the human condition, all viewed through a decidedly contemporary lens. Beyond its exhibitions, the Foundation is a vibrant hub of cultural life. Meetings, conferences, workshops, screenings, concerts, and tours allow all audiences to deepen their understanding of Van Gogh's work while also exploring contemporary artistic practices. Located in the city where Vincent van Gogh created over 300 works between 1888 and 1889, the Foundation plays a vital role in the cultural vibrancy of Arles.
35 rue du Dr Fanton, Arles, France
fondation-vincentvangogh-arles.org
Mono Nado
Mono Nado is a record shop that draws its inspiration from both Arles and Kyoto. With a carefully curated selection of eclectic music and minimalist design objects, Mono Nado seeks to stimulate curiosity and discovery off the beaten path. The shop becomes a meeting place and "a parenthesis where attentive listening makes the shared experience of our earthly condition tangible." From jazz to Japanese melodies, the cultural journey offers a moment of escape amidst the narrow streets of Arles. A vast soundscape awaits discovery, alone or with others, like a respite from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.
2B rue Balze, Arles, France
Actes Sud Bookstore
On the banks of the Rhône, within the Méjan cultural complex, the Actes Sud bookstore is much more than just a bookstore: it's a true hub for encounters, discoveries, and creativity. Closely linked to the renowned Arles-based publishing house founded in 1978, it has become, over the years, an essential institution for lovers of books, music, and contemporary thought. During the Photography Festival, the Actes Sud bookstore sets up a space in Croisère to showcase all the books related to the photographic exhibitions. The experience goes far beyond simply buying books. The bookstore hosts events with photographers for book signings and talks, primarily in the Méjan auditorium, such as the one with the acclaimed photographer Harry Gruyaert. The warm atmosphere invites you to take your time browsing the shelves, discovering the latest releases as well as more niche titles, carefully selected by a team of passionate booksellers. This editorial rigor and constant curiosity reflect the identity of Actes Sud, whose catalog has significantly contributed to Arles' cultural influence far beyond the borders of France. A true crossroads of ideas, the Actes Sud bookstore embodies the spirit of the city: open to the world, deeply committed to creativity, and resolutely focused on sharing. It is an essential address for anyone wishing to discover Arles through its books, its authors, and its exceptional cultural vibrancy.
Nina Berberova Square, Arles, France
This small village holds more wonders than one could imagine. It can be explored not only through the Photography Festival but also at the table of a warm and conceptual restaurant that hosts a succession of chefs in residence, such as Le Chardon. From cafés with redesigned counters, the trendiest drinks are presented on a menu faithful to local produce. The artistic presence in the town is not one-sided; the spectrum of photography shares its privileged place with the art of Van Gogh, greatly inspired by Arles, but also with the more abstract work of Lee Ufan. A large number of meeting places contribute to the cosmopolitan richness of this town, such as La Croisière, a multifaceted space in Arlesian life with a multidisciplinary program, the Actes Sud bookstore, and the Mono Nado record shop.
