In northeastern Brazil, between São Luís and Fortaleza, this Atlantic coast route stretches for hundreds of kilometers through breathtakingly beautiful landscapes. An invitation to gentle adventure, where the dunes meet the ocean.
Far, far away from Brazil's major cities, and far from the tourist trail, the aptly named Route of Emotions begins with two UNESCO World Heritage sites: São Luís, a colonial city founded by Bretons in the 17th century , gateway to Lençóis Maranhenses National Park, the natural treasure of the Northeast. Stretching as far as the eye can see along 80 kilometers of coastline, this Brazilian Sahara reveals pristine white dunes, their shapes and heights shifting with the wind. Their undulations, seen from the sky, evoke the movement of sheets ("lençóis" in Portuguese). During the rainy season, fresh water accumulates, creating thousands of lagoons with crystal-clear turquoise and emerald waters between the sandy hillsides, perfect for swimming from May to November.
Further east, the Parnaíba River delta stretches for miles through mangrove-lined canals dotted with wild islands: a miniature Amazon, teeming with iguanas, caimans, turtles, monkeys, and above all, magnificent scarlet ibises, best observed from a boat during the day or under the stars on a night safari. Beyond this lies an endless succession of dunes and beaches, punctuated by a few ramshackle huts and colorful boats. Very few people venture here, apart from fishermen between trips out to sea and kitesurfers from all over the world who come to enjoy these renowned spots and put on a spectacular acrobatic display. Here, there are no coastal roads, only tracks. Excursions along the long beaches, across the dunes and plains, are only possible by 4x4, on horseback, and especially by buggy. On the canals and inlets, by boat, kayak or paddleboard… As for accommodation, there's something for every taste and budget, from rustic pousadas to chic lodges, opened in recent years in small seaside villages like Barra Grande, Atins or Preá, or in the middle of nowhere. A bohemian, peaceful atmosphere, always with your feet in the sand.
Casa Daia, virtuous luxury
During a kitesurfing session, Eduardo Hargreaves, originally from Rio de Janeiro, fell under the spell of a dream location in the state of Ceará: an endless, windswept, deserted beach. Just beyond the dunes, he discovered a farm property, which he acquired and transformed into an ecolodge. From a hyperactive financier, splitting his time between São Paulo and New York, he became a laid-back hotelier in the heart of nature, far from everything. He embraced a new dress code: flip-flops and a baseball cap. Just like his guests, who are invited to disconnect as soon as they step through the gate. The original house, completely renovated, and its extension house the common areas and three bedrooms, arranged around an indoor-outdoor terrace with ultra-cozy sofas, a pool-solarium, and a communal dining table. Each season, chef Fábio Vieira adapts the menu to the available fruits and vegetables, particularly those from the on-site agroecological garden (which is open to visitors). In terms of décor, the charm of the place lies in the alchemy between wood, sand, green, and terracotta hues, creations by local artisans, paintings by Tarsila do Amaral, and photographs by Sebastião Salgado. Just a few steps away, two bungalows with private pools have recently been added. Built entirely of wood from sustainably managed forests, Eduardo Hargreaves envisioned Casa Daia as a model of regenerative tourism, contributing to the improvement of the environment and the lives of local communities. Mission accomplished!
The plus: a whole range of original activities, from breakfast served at the foot of a dune to paddleboarding on the river and shellfish fishing, which is then cooked with the women of the village.
Oia Casa, a design retreat
On the shores of a lake, near the village of Santo Amaro and at the gateway to the Lençóis Maranhenses, lies a gem of a boutique hotel, housed in a converted farmhouse. The eight suites, decorated in sandy hues, are spread across the main house, which extends onto a spacious terrace, and three brand-new bungalows. The gourmet restaurant showcases the products and flavors of Northeast Brazil.
The plus: the very beautiful interiors, designed by the Brazilian architect Marina Linhares with handcrafted pieces and local materials in harmony (straw, wood, leather…).
Casas Elilula, the good life in a villa
Not far from bustling Jericoacoara, on Preá beach, a French family has created this ultra-exclusive complex of three immense contemporary villas built with tropical wood and thatched roofs, arranged around a stunning 650-square-meter swimming pool and bordered by lush gardens. Fully equipped, they can be rented together or separately. A magnificent retreat for a family vacation, accommodating up to 20 people.
The plus: the ultra-sharp address book made available to guests (restaurants, private capoeira or kitesurfing lessons, craft workshops…).
