Jerusalem's culinary scene: from the rooftops of the Old City to the tables of Mahane Yehuda

In Jerusalem, each neighborhood tells a different story. From rooftops overlooking the Old City to the lively tables of Mahane Yehuda, from central cafes to addresses nestled in the surrounding hills, here is a personal selection to discover Jerusalem differently, between panoramas, cuisine and the art of living.

September is a particularly pleasant month to discover Jerusalem. The intense summer heat begins to subside, and the climate becomes milder, perfect for walks, outdoor cafes, and evenings spent outdoors. In 2026, the major Jewish holidays—Rosh Hashanah, Yom Kippur, and Sukkot—attract many visitors, while the Christian calendar is marked by the Exaltation of the Holy Cross, in a city that welcomes pilgrims and travelers year-round. Muslim residents also take advantage of this period and its quieter moments to go out and explore the city. Between religious fervor and the gentle warmth of late summer, September offers a unique atmosphere for discovering Jerusalem: from its rooftops, around the tables of Mahane Yehuda, in the cafes of the city center, or by escaping to the surrounding hills.

Jerusalem from above: four rooftops to discover the city from a different perspective

In Jerusalem, gaining a new perspective on the city changes everything. The walls of the Old City, the bell towers, the domes, and the golden stone take on a different dimension at sunset. But not all rooftops are created equal: some are prized for their panoramic views, others for their atmosphere, their cuisine, or simply for the pleasure of escaping the hustle and bustle of the streets for a few hours.

Waldorf Astoria, for the atmosphere

At the Waldorf Astoria, the terrace prioritizes elegance and intimacy over spectacular views. In my opinion, the view isn't the main reason to come here. However, I particularly appreciated the tranquil atmosphere, ideal for a romantic dinner or an evening away from the hustle and bustle of the city.

The food is good and well-prepared, even if the portions are rather small. People come as much for the ambiance, the service, and the feeling of being somewhat secluded as for the food itself. It's an intimate setting that perfectly reflects the spirit of the Waldorf Astoria.

Waldorf Astoria Jerusalem – 26-28 Gershon Agron Street, Jerusalem
website: https://www.hilton.com/en/hotels/jrswawa-waldorf-astoria-jerusalem/

Mamilla, Jerusalem in panorama

A change of atmosphere awaits at the rooftop of the Mamilla Hotel. Here, the view truly steals the show. Facing the walls of the Old City, the terrace offers one of the most beautiful panoramas in this part of Jerusalem, especially as the light begins to fade.

I also love the place for its excellent wine list, with a significant focus on Israeli wineries. A glass of wine at sunset is almost reason enough to visit. The immediate proximity of the Jaffa Gate and the city walls gives the place a rather unique feeling of being on the border between modern Jerusalem and the historic city.

Mamilla Hotel – 11 King Solomon Street, Jerusalem
website: https://www.mamillahotel.com/eat-drink/the-rooftop/

Nucha, the newcomer

The more recent addition, the rooftop bar at the Nucha Hotel, brings a different energy to this selection. Located on the hotel's top floor, around the pool, it offers a contemporary setting, ideal for drinks with a loved one or friends. The menu features a few small plates to share, designed more as an aperitif than a full meal. The oyster mushrooms and roasted cabbage are particularly worth trying. The outdoor area, primarily reserved for smokers, offers panoramic views of historic Jerusalem and the modern city. A pleasant spot to start the evening in a modern and relaxed atmosphere.

Nucha Hotel – Jerusalem
website: https://www.leonardo-hotels.com/jerusalem/nucha-hotel

Notre Dame, facing the Old Town

For a complete change of perspective, head to the Notre Dame of Jerusalem Center. Its rooftop offers a remarkable view of the walls and rooftops of the Old City.

The atmosphere is very different from that of the grand hotels in West Jerusalem. The place invites contemplation of the city and allows you to appreciate, from its elevated position, the layering of eras, religions, and architectural styles that makes Jerusalem so unique. The restaurant also offers wines and cheeses, making it a lovely place to settle in at the end of the day and watch the light gradually change on the stone of Jerusalem.

Our Lady of Jerusalem Center – 3 HaTsanhanim Street, Jerusalem
website: https://www.notredamecenter.org/

Mahane Yehuda: Three ways to discover the market

It's impossible to visit Jerusalem without stopping at Mahane Yehuda. Of course, you'll find the classics—falafel, hummus, bourekas, and other Levantine specialties—but the market is now so much more. To get off the beaten path, come and sample a new generation of street food that reinvents traditions and deliciously blends the cultures that make up Jerusalem. From revisited Moroccan recipes and vegetarian and vegan cuisine to American, Mexican, and Asian influences, the up-and-coming restaurants of Mahane Yehuda draw inspiration from everywhere, all while retaining the market's unique energy. By day, people come for the stalls and the little gourmet spots; by night, the shutters come down, the bars come alive, and the market transforms completely. Here are three places I particularly like to discover this other side of Mahane Yehuda.

Nuna, the reinvented little girl

For me, Nuna is a must-visit. This restaurant puts a fresh spin on moufleta, a traditional specialty, with an original and delicious twist. It's simple, different, and above all, delicious: exactly the kind of place you love to discover while wandering the streets of Mahane Yehuda.

Nuna – Mufleta – 3 Ha-Tut Street, Jerusalem
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1530433370590879/

Mimounis, light and creative

Mimounis offers a different experience, with light and creative vegetarian and vegan cuisine. A great option when you want to take a break in Mahane Yehuda and enjoy something fresh and different.

Mimounis – Mahane Yehuda sector, Jerusalem
website: https://www.gokosher.com/en/f93155

Crave, street food gourmet version

Crave plays a different tune altogether. Here, street food draws inspiration from American, Mexican, and Asian cuisines. Everything is designed with a relaxed and gourmet feel, with many dishes prepared on-site. It's a vibrant spot that I particularly love when Mahane Yehuda transforms the atmosphere in the evening.

Crave Gourmet Street Food – 1 Ha-Shikma Street, Jerusalem
website: https://www.crave.co.il/

In the city

Helen Family Bakers, from brunch to dinner

Helen is one of those places you can return to at different times of the day. This family-run French pastry shop and restaurant is perfect during the day for brunch, coffee, or afternoon tea with a pastry.

In the evening, the restaurant transforms, offering a more refined yet still delicious meal. It's precisely this dual identity that I love: a family-friendly and gourmet spot that works equally well for a midday break or a proper dinner.

Helen Family Bakers – 6 Agripas Street, Jerusalem
Information: https://www.tripadvisor.fr/Restaurant_Review-g293983-d33019220-Reviews-Helen_Family_Bakers-Jerusalem_Jerusalem_District.html

Denya Café, a sure thing

On a simpler note, Denya remains a reliable choice for me: the food is always good, varied, and the service is pleasant. The menu offers options for breakfast, lunch, or dinner, featuring Mediterranean cuisine with Italian influences.

It's not necessarily the address you choose for its spectacular aspect, but rather the one where you know you'll eat well, and sometimes that's exactly what you're looking for.

Denya Café – several locations in Jerusalem, including 102 Herzl Boulevard, Beit HaKerem
website: https://www.denyacafe.co.il/

Leaving Jerusalem: three escapes into the mountains

And then there are days when you want to escape the intensity of Jerusalem for a few hours. You just have to move away from the center to find the hills, the vegetation and a completely different atmosphere.

Harim Bakery, facing the hills

At the entrance to Kiryat Anavim, Harim is a pastry shop, bakery, and café all in one, with a workshop where everything is made on-site. They also offer a selection of wines, cheeses, and grocery items.

But people also come for the environment: facing the mountains of Jerusalem, it's a perfect stop during the day, far from the hustle and bustle of the center.

Harim Bakery – Kiryat Anavim
website: https://harimbakery.co.il/

Naya, a different atmosphere

Naya offers contemporary Asian cuisine in a setting that provides a complete change of atmosphere and a welcome escape from the center of Jerusalem. It's the kind of place where the journey itself is part of the pleasure: leaving the city to have lunch or dinner in a more open and peaceful environment.

Naya – Jerusalem
website: https://na-ya.com/

Derech HaGefen, a green interlude

In Beit Zayit, Derech HaGefen is probably one of the most unique restaurants in this selection. Nestled in lush greenery, the restaurant offers a true escape just a few kilometers from Jerusalem.

People come to eat, of course, but also to take their time, enjoy the garden and have the feeling of having left the city even though it remains very close.

Derech HaGefen – Beit Zayit
website: https://d-hagefen.co.il/

Whether it's admiring the walls from a rooftop, enjoying a modern take on moufleta at Mahane Yehuda, stopping at a French pastry shop, or spending a few hours in the hills, each of these places ultimately reveals a different side of Jerusalem. And perhaps that's the best way to discover the city: moving from one neighborhood and its atmosphere to another, and understanding that there is never just one Jerusalem.

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