ET SI C'ÉTAIT CELA, LA VRAIE BISTRONOMIE?
Nestled on a small square in the Belleville district, this new address borrows its name from Romain Gary's alias, Émile Ajar. The author made this working-class neighborhood the setting for his famous Prix Goncourt-winning novel, La vie devant soi.

Once inside, you're greeted by exposed brickwork, a warm-toned ceramic bar, fifties-style mosaic tiling and a matte-blue envelope concealing the kitchens. The setting is minimal, simple and tasteful. But it's not the quest for purity or literature that has brought us here... it's rather this pickle spritz, whose acidity gently stimulates us as an aperitif.

The festivities continue with comforting polenta fries and sorrel mayonnaise. Then it's time for freshness, with a raw oyster, topped with fresh ginger, sauternes jelly and a welcome guanciale. We'd love to have a second, but we must continue with this equally refreshing scallop carpaccio with beet, seaweed caviar and buckwheat tuiles.

Bold, the venison shank is accompanied by butternut tagliatelle enhanced by a hot sauce. Then it's time for dessert, which is largely responsible for our coming and which really intrigues us: the sundae with chicken skin ice cream, caramel, chestnut shortbread, and that very disconcerting thyme chantilly that conjures up memories of the family Sunday dish at dessert time.

Conquered, we don't hesitate for a second to ask for a second cup of ice cream, this time an arugula sorbet and its "extra hole" with gin and bergamot limoncello. Because in addition to offering a truly creative cuisine, which has fun and entertains us while delighting us, ajar offers a sweet price range that will appeal to everyone. Ideal after the spendthrift decadence of the festive season.

AJAR
34, RUE SAINTE-MARTHE, PARIS 10E
@AJARPARIS