Forget Berlin, London or Copenhagen. Now Zurich is the buzz. Switzerland's business capital is buzzing, changing and seducing. Contemporary art, design, gastronomy, fashion... In the East, there's something new!
Zurich is no longer just about powerful banks, insurance companies and multinationals. Gone is its wise and austere image. Prosperous and dynamic, German-speaking but also very cosmopolitan, the "little big city" proudly displays its assets: a bucolic natural setting, between rivers, lake and mountains, a historic center with medieval charm and a creative effervescence that is finally coming to light. Above all, it's worth remembering that Dadaism was born here a century ago, at the Cabaret Voltaire, which is still in operation today. A stroll through the city sometimes means coming face to face with masterpieces: on the lakeshore, a pavilion by Le Corbusier, his last and only work in steel and glass, and a little further on, a huge kinetic sculpture by Jean Tinguely; in the concourse of the main railway station, a monumental installation by Niki de Saint Phalle, suspended in mid-air.
Culture, and art in particular, is a serious business in Zurich, which boasts a record number of museums - some 50 - including the Kunsthaus and its recent extension designed by starchitect David Chipperfield, the Museum für Gestaltung (dedicated to design and graphics) and the Migros Museum für Gegenwartskunst (contemporary art). There are also an abundance of art galleries, starting with Hauser & Wirth and Gmurzynska, designed by Zaha Hadid.
Like other metropolises, Zurich has harnessed the tremendous potential of its industrial districts, transforming former breweries, wastelands and disused warehouses into alternative cultural venues and trendy hot spots. The epicenter of this new wave is located in the west of the city, around Viadukt and its food court, where concept stores, vintage boutiques, coffee shops, designer workshops of all kinds line up under the arches and, at the end of the route, the flagship of Freitag, the local brand of recycled tarpaulin bags, which occupies several stacked containers. Elsewhere, in the random neighborhoods we call Kreis, from one streetcar station to another, Zurich is constantly testing new hotel and culinary concepts. And it's organizing more and more events: Art International Zurich (May 23 to 25, 2025), Food Zurich (June 12 to 22), Zurich Art weekend (June 13 to 15), Zurich Design Weeks (September 4 to 14)... So many opportunities to plan an original getaway, four hours by train direct from Paris.
Address book
The Home, the Dadaist legacy
On the banks of the Sihl, in an increasingly lively district, a former paper factory has been restored to create this brand-new Design Hotel with 132 rooms and suites. A deliberately non-conformist design, a cultural agenda open to all the arts, a relaxed atmosphere: in its own way, it maintains the spirit of the Dada movement.
B2, among books
A vestige of a brewery, with a few heavy machines still on display, this 60-room, 4-star hotel welcomes a mix of tourists, coworkers and Zurichers for tea time or afterwork. B2 is a contraction of "boutique-hotel" and "books". And there are plenty of books here: 3,300 in all, arranged on huge shelves in the lobby-bar, around monumental beer-bottle chandeliers. Awe-inspiring!
The Counter, haute gastronomy
Barely open and already two Michelin stars! The creativity of chef Mitja Birlo, the open kitchen to follow the precise movements of the brigade and its strategic location in the central station make this counter imagined by chef-entrepreneur Nenad Mlinarevic a must-try address, before or after a train journey.
Anoah, for the love of plants
For his first restaurant, 24-year-old Noah Rechsteiner is hitting it big. His plant-based cuisine is revealed each evening in a unique menu, and at weekends in a brunch format. The slogan is straight to the point: "Make food, not war".
Haus Konstruktiv, another idea of art
As it approaches its 40th anniversary, this private museum dedicated to constructive, concrete and conceptual art joins other major cultural institutions in Zurich-West, including the Museum für Gestaltung and Migros. Its exhibitions are now displayed behind the tall red-brick façade of the Löwenbrau brewery.
Studio Fuse, cutting-edge shopping
In a raw concrete décor, this concept store showcases trendy and ultra-confidential brands from all over Europe. An original selection of clothing, jewelry, bags, accessories, decorative objects...
Find out more
The Zurich guide from independent French publisher Papier: 160 pages of top addresses, ideas for walks and activities, meetings with local personalities and practical advice. Published December 2024, €25. guidepapier.fr
