Located in the heart of the Madeleine district, in the 8th arrondissemente In the arrondissement of Paris, this new culinary address located on the ground floor of the Florida hotel transports us into a colorful and warm atmosphere between Italy and Corsica with, as a common thread, nepita, a mentholated aromatic herb, which makes its way into the kitchen.
The menu is the work of chef Amandine Chaignot, who first came to prominence in 2019 with her debut restaurant, Pouliche, before taking the helm at Café de Luce, whose dishes, paying homage to the true French bistro, had completely won us over. We were therefore eager to discover the new culinary story written by this talented chef.
Before taking our seats, we waited a few moments in the hotel's small lounge, designed by the interior design firm Liautard and The Queen. Conceived as a family home with an Art Deco feel, this establishment immerses us in a true cocoon, adorned with warm materials like velvet and wood, which are found in each of the rooms and suites, as well as throughout the living spaces. The warm atmosphere certainly stems from small details that we discover as we explore, such as the ceramic work (in sconces, on the walls, or on the floor), the graphic carpets, and the fragrant breeze of leather, coffee, and mahogany wood that permeates the entire space.
We began our tasting with a few plates to share, so tasty that I had to mention them: Socca, black plum and candied lemon condiment, the very original combination of chickpeas and black plum, divine parmesan shortbread and black olive tapenade, full of power; finally, Artichoke cream, toasted focaccia, homemade, tasty, generous and beautifully presented.
Next comes the first starter, a simmered chard stew with saffron, raisins and fennel, a vegetarian dish with perfectly balanced flavors, a sweet and savory combination that delights the taste buds, followed by a second, Agnolotti with sweet onion and grilled octopus, a very fine preparation of the octopus and the flavorful sauce that binds the whole dish together.
We continue with one of the chef's signature dishes, Taglioni with langoustines, a reduced nepita bisque, a very graphic presentation, flavors combining strength and delicacy – the richness provided by the bisque, and the roundness of the dish by the fresh pasta – cooked al dente, in the Italian style. A glass of white wine (Sauvignon – Domaine des Corbillières – 2021) accompanies the tasting of this dish.
The founder, Matthieu Dumas, a fine gastronome and wine enthusiast, himself developed the wine list, enriched with grape varieties mainly Chardonnay and Pinot Rouge, highlighting natural, biodynamic wines, but also some big names that are quite rare in this type of establishment.
Finally, we end this lovely taste journey with a sweet note brought by a chocolate dessert, a kind of revisited fondant, ultra-light and not very sweet, accompanied by a milk chocolate ice cream, to die for.
Chef Amandine Chaignot continues to surprise us with her wonderful generosity and the love she pours into each of her dishes. Her Mediterranean-inspired plates are sure to enchant every visitor.
Antoine Blanc
