Nestled on a quiet side street just steps from the elegant Place des Victoires, chef Omar Dhiab's restaurant offers a demonstration of precision while evoking his childhood memories. A well-deserved reward, the Michelin Guide has just awarded him his first star.
After gaining solid experience in some of the biggest establishments (Lasserre, L'Abeille du Shangri-La, Ledoyen or Loiseau Rive Gauche), this 32-year-old chef decided to open his own restaurant in September 2022.
The entrance sets the tone: a long wooden counter, raised on a marble worktop where the team works diligently and with perfect organization. These same noble materials are echoed in the dining room of this beautiful setting, designed by the Hauvette & Madani design studio. An elegant décor in understated tones includes two more intimate alcoves, perfect for private lunches or dinners.
We begin with a welcome drink, a karkadé made with hibiscus and enhanced with citrus notes, a beverage paying homage to the chef's Egyptian origins, original and delicious. The starting point of a great culinary journey.
For me, it will be a five-course menu, allowing me to discover the chef's cuisine, gourmet, precise, but also fun like this triptych of amuse-bouches: compressed lacquered beef tongue covered with grilled onions, shaped like a lollipop, powerful, melting, exquisite, then divine snail, parsnip, on a bed of pistachios, and finally tempura vine leaf, all in delicacy, chickpea condiment, with an intense taste.
Here, consistency is key. A menu that unfolds like a story being told to you, with the chef's origins as the guiding thread and, between the lines, a magnificent work on herbs and acidity.
We begin with a visually striking and precise dish, perfectly balanced: layered foie gras and mushrooms from the Île-de-France region, topped with smoked eel. The depth of the smoked fish and the richness of the foie gras glide beautifully across the palate, creating a truly powerful sensation. One of those memorable dishes that lingers long after the last bite.
Next, our tasting continued with one of the chef's specialties: veal sweetbread croquettes with a Grenoble-style condiment. The acidity of the preserved lemon complemented the rich, tangy flavors, all enhanced by the comforting crunch of toasted bread. It was served with a rich veal jus to bring all the elements together. A gastronomic delight, both meltingly tender and crispy, that will win over even the most reluctant sweetbread-haters, so perfectly executed is the mastery of flavor combinations.
Next came two courses. The first was blue lobster à la "Dhiab," with a rocket and lobster relish and a green peppercorn sabayon. A plate of such elegance and clarity! We could see the sheen of the crustacean, simply grilled, delicately placed on an absolutely fabulous herbaceous relish, and a magnificent, highly original pairing with the earthy note imparted by the green peppercorns. Similarly, the smoked sardine, paired with the second course—French-hunted venison, olives, and smoked mustard—acted as a substitute for fleur de sel, while the kumquat added a touch of acidity. Every ingredient was carefully chosen to achieve perfect balance.
Our tasting becomes a succession of expertly balanced flavors, right up to the desserts: one made with chocolate and seaweed, of exquisite finesse and intense aromatic richness, and the other with heritage apples and green cardamom, a true return to childhood. For the chef's cuisine is also one of memories of family cooking where love is passed down through the recipes. Like that stunning semolina cake with orange blossom, which concludes this fabulous culinary journey.
Chef Omar Dhiab delivers a highly personalized cuisine of exceptional quality, with intelligent and exciting recipes. It's not just the Michelin star that will make this superb restaurant famous. The exceptional attention to detail shown by the entire team towards its guests is also noteworthy.
Antoine Blanc
