Julia Sedefdjian, the youngest Michelin-starred chef in France in 2016, continues her meteoric rise with her first restaurant, Baieta, opened in 2018, which has just undergone a makeover to highlight the owner's Niçoise origins, offering inventive, precise and refined cuisine.
The decor is understated yet welcoming, featuring stone walls, parquet flooring, designer black and gold pendant lights, and a prominent use of oak. A glass partition allows guests to observe the kitchen in action without intruding on the secrets of the culinary process. The service is professional yet relaxed, a welcome quality in such gastronomic establishments where Michelin stars can sometimes impersonalize the staff.
None of that here, quite the opposite: the young chef and her team primarily want you to have a wonderful time, and we feel it from the moment we arrive. The "Baieta" adventure is beautiful because it is first and foremost the result of a meeting and a friendship between passionate lovers of fine ingredients. Julia partnered with Sébastien Jean-Joseph and Grégory Anelka, whom she met in the kitchens of Les Fables de la Fontaine. The amuse-bouches arrive, delicately presented in a wooden box.
Their flavors quickly take us away from winter and bring us closer to the aromas of the South. Panisse with a refined taste, revisited pissaladière, a melting heart coated in a delicious crispy pastry, and finally, a small forest candy with a tartlet, shortcrust pastry and deliciously seasoned mushrooms.
A tantalizing introduction that made me eager to discover the rest of our tasting. I had heard about a signature dish I was impatient to try: crispy egg yolk, whiting and haddock, leeks in a seaweed vinaigrette, and pickled red onions. A superb creation, meticulous and perfectly balanced. A masterful blend of delicateness, depth, and intensity all on one plate – a true delight.
Next comes another Provençal specialty, revisited and elevated by Chef Julia Sedefdjian: bouillabaisse, a "bouillabaieta 2.0" in three courses: perfectly cooked fish, the originality of rouille bread, a rich bouillabaisse broth, fennel spaghetti, and octopus with parsley. A specialty too rarely reinterpreted, which the chef recomposes with precision and character.
Another dish we tasted was beef cheek ravioli with consommé, pointed cabbage, and Niçoise condiment. The broth was beautifully crafted, and the condiments subtly and comfortingly complemented the dish's delicate sweetness. I'll stop there regarding the dishes so as not to spoil the entire tasting menu.
Finally, lest we forget that baieta Meaning "kiss" in the Niçois dialect, we finished our tasting menu with the feuille à feuille, hazelnut with sumac, hazelnut cream and ice cream, and spiced citrus marmalade. An elegant and refreshing dish, enhanced by the Buddha's hand, which brought this dinner to a gentle, nostalgic close. It's worth noting that the chef began her career in pastry, a powerful asset in gastronomy.
On the wine front, the Maison boasts a superb cellar, featuring natural wines and a very fine selection of Burgundies – the Pinot Noir from Domaine Georges Joillot (2021) was my constant companion throughout the tasting. Also worth noting is a Fixin "Vieilles Vignes" from Domaine Mortet and a Vosne-Romanée 1er The vintage “Les Suchots” (2021) by François Confuron-Gindre was catching my eye behind the glass-fronted cellar that stood in the room.
The entire Baietanous team invites you to enjoy a true gastronomic experience in a friendly and relaxed atmosphere. And that's exactly what we love: impeccable and warm service, expertly prepared dishes full of character, and an undying passion for Niçoise cuisine that shines through in every single dish we tasted.
Baieta
5, rue de Pontoise, Paris 5e
