The houses that made their mark on the season
At Valentino , Alessandro Michele transformed the show into a veritable poetic manifesto. Inspired by a letter from Pasolini about fireflies, he celebrated the light that resists darkness. Between peacock blue blouses and chartreuse trousers, he sought simplicity without sacrificing magic. The draped and flowing dresses seemed to breathe new life into the concept. Pamela Anderson's spoken-word performance, followed by a shimmering finale evoking the flight of fireflies, offered a suspended and profoundly moving moment.
At Balenciaga , Pierpaolo Piccioli ushered in a renaissance. Inspired by the iconic 1957 sack dress, he paid homage to Cristóbal Balenciaga while reaffirming his humanist vision. Silhouettes floated between minimalism and glamorous evening wear, volumes were ample, and colors vibrant. Everything exuded understated beauty, a fashion that was beautiful, fluid, and realistic. Piccioli restored to Balenciaga an unexpected gentleness, an emotion on a human scale.
At Alaïa , Pieter Mulier continued the master's work with sensual rigor. The pieces in cotton, leather, python, or silk create a tension between strength and fragility. Each garment embraces the body, suspended in a balance between precision and emotion. Craftsmanship becomes invention, fringes dance, twists sculpt. Alaïa remains a house of purity, extreme beauty, and living bodies.
At Margiela , Glenn Martens paid homage to the brand's original spirit while simultaneously imposing his own vision. The show opened with a soundtrack performed by children, a nod to the iconic 1990 show. The silhouettes, crafted from leather, denim, and wool, reinvented tailoring through free-flowing volumes. The emblematic four stitches became metallic jewels, symbols of a house that refuses to be frozen in time. Glenn Martens succeeded in blending memory and evolution with rare sincerity.
At Rick Owens , the show transformed into an aquatic procession on the steps of the Palais de Tokyo. Models walked through water, somewhere between apocalypse and celebration, accompanied by the voice of Grace Slick. Sculpted leather, fetishistic harnesses, and black silhouettes: everything vibrated between chaos and beauty. Rick Owens once again elevated fashion to the level of ritual—dark, mystical, yet profoundly human.
At Schiaparelli , Daniel Roseberry presented a sensual and controlled spectacle, where haute couture flirts with the everyday. His wife is powerful, mysterious, almost dangerous. The jackets with their strong shoulders, the openwork dresses, the understated colors inspired by Brancusi and Dalí breathe new life into Elsa Schiaparelli's legacy. Here, fashion becomes sculpture, emotion, and illusion all at once.
At Courrèges , Nicolas Di Felice plunged the audience into a blinding light. The show, titled Blinded by the Sun , offered a sensory experience where clothing became protection. Mini-skirts, futuristic visors, capes, and sheer fabrics: everything seemed ready to face the new heat. A solar, almost utopian collection, where the future is defined by simplicity.
This season, Parisian fashion resonated with both introspection and rebirth. Less provocation, more meaning. Designers spoke of light, tension, and humanity. After years of chaos and excess, this Fashion Week seems to mark a return to sincerity: the sincerity of gesture, of the body, of clothing.
And what did you think of this season? Which house impressed you the most?
