Jacquemus possesses a rare ability to evoke distant lands without idealizing them, to embrace the beauty of the world without freezing it in time. With "La Croisière," his Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Simon Porte Jacquemus offers us a sensual escape between two shores: the hushed atmosphere of a Parisian apartment where the show took place, and the fiery, luminous shores of Egypt, chosen as the backdrop for the photographic campaign.
From the banks of Cairo to the palm groves of Aswan, Jacquemus silhouettes come to life through the lens of talented Egyptian photographer Mohamed Sherif. Without artifice or embellishment, his images capture the truth of the moment: a dress, a breath of wind, a gesture exchanged between two glances. Here, fashion isn't displayed; it inhabits the landscape.
Models Angelina Kendall and Mohamed Hassan, who also walked the runway in Paris, embody this fluid, understated elegance in motion. The clothes themselves tell a story of clean lines and a soft allure: double-breasted blazers, pleated trousers, and structured midi dresses. The color palette is infused with sunshine: deep red, golden yellow, and sandy white. A refined simplicity, a grace without ostentation.
Jacquemus has created a manifesto of slow fashion, an ode to understated sophistication. Where others might have overdone the setting, he opts for restraint. Egypt is not merely decorative; it becomes a partner. Through Sherif's photographs, it reveals itself in its raw beauty, between water, earth, and sky, as if self-evident. Here, luxury is measured in silence.
“La Croisière” follows in the footsteps of those who, before Jacquemus, were inspired by this territory – Dior, Stefano Ricci, Rick Owens… But the French designer seeks neither excess nor bombast. He evokes instead an emotion, an inner journey, a connection. His cruise is a crossing: a voyage of observation of the world, a couture gesture toward reality.
And if we had to choose just one image, it might be that of an accessory resting on a warm stone, or that of a draped garment embracing the light of the Nile. Where couture could become mere posturing, here it becomes poetry.
