Jacquemus has a rare way of summoning elsewhere without idealizing it, of embracing the beauty of the world without freezing it. With "La Croisière," his spring/summer 2025 collection, Simon Porte Jacquemus offers us a sensual escape between two shores: the hushed one of a Parisian apartment where the show took place, and the burning, luminous one of Egypt, chosen as the backdrop for the photographic campaign.
From the shores of Cairo to the palm groves of Aswan, Jacquemus silhouettes come to life through the lens of talented Egyptian photographer Mohamed Sherif. Without artifice or folklore, his images capture the truth of the moment. A dress, a breath of wind, a gesture between two glances. Here, fashion isn't on display: it inhabits the landscape.
Models Angelina Kendall and Mohamed Hassan, who had already appeared at the Paris show, embody this elegance in motion, fluid and silent. The clothes, for their part, tell a story of clean lines and soft allure: double-breasted blazers, pleated trousers, structured midi dresses. The palette is imbued with sunshine: deep red, golden yellow, sandy white. A refined simplicity, a grace without fuss.
Jacquemus has created a manifesto for slow fashion, an ode to understated sophistication. Where others might have overplayed the decor, he opts for restraint. Egypt isn't decorative: it becomes a partner. Through Sherif's photographs, it offers itself in its raw beauty, between water, earth, and sky, as if it were self-evident. Luxury, here, is measured by silence.
"La Croisière" follows in the footsteps of those who, before Jacquemus, were inspired by this territory – Dior, Stefano Ricci, Rick Owens… But the French designer seeks neither excess nor bombast. Rather, he evokes an emotion, an inner journey, a connection. His cruise is a journey: that of a look at the world, a couture gesture towards reality.
And if we had to retain only one image, it would perhaps be that of an accessory placed on a warm stone, or that of a drape that embraces the light of the Nile. Where sewing could become posture, here it becomes poetry.
