Anthony Vaccarello presents a Saint Laurent Homme collection that blends seventies elegance with contemporary introspection, set against an aquatic backdrop designed by Céleste Boursier-Mougenot. At the Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection, fashion resonates with art to create a sense of timelessness.
Anthony Vaccarello has a very personal way of summoning the past: not as a frozen archive, but as living material. For this Spring/Summer 2026 season, the Italian-Belgian designer immersed himself in the 70s, an era of liberation and nonchalance, to craft a masculine silhouette of rare precision.
Against the majestic backdrop of the Bourse de Commerce, the models move slowly forward. At the waist, tailored pleated trousers; over the shoulders, shirts with flap pockets and discreetly tucked ties; on their backs, Yves' iconic trench-parka, revisited with an airy lightness. Turtleneck polos, sometimes semi-sheer, flowing scarves, and double-breasted blazers worn over shorts create a stylistic composition that is both subtle and assertive.
Far from flashy contrasts, the collection expresses itself through soothing hues: apple green, lavender, misty mauve, sky blue. These colors harmonize from one look to the next, as if to suggest a continuous flow, a visual symphony. The silhouettes are sculpted but never rigid. Vaccarello prefers gentle tension, a tranquil air, a restrained sensuality.
Perhaps it was this need for inner silence that led Saint Laurent to choose this very particular venue for his show. Because this year, the Bourse de Commerce was not just an architectural backdrop: it also housed an immersive sound installation.
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In the heart of the Rotunda, transformed for the occasion, the artist Céleste Boursier-Mougenot has installed clinamen : an aquatic and acoustic artwork 18 meters in diameter, where white porcelain bowls float. Set in motion by a slight current, these bowls collide and produce a random melody, a hypnotic song without a performer.
Curated by Emma Lavigne, director of the Pinault Collection, this installation reinvents the Bourse space as a sonic sanctuary. Inspired by Epicurean physics, the word clinamen It refers to the unpredictable moment when an atom deviates from its trajectory. Here, it is the visitor — and the spectator of the parade — who becomes an atom wandering in an environment where time seems suspended.
Boursier-Mougenot, known for repurposing everyday objects for musical ends, created a symphony of the moment. His work, both individual and collective, conversed with the soft footsteps of the Saint Laurent models. Fashion didn't just parade by: it resonated.
Vaccarello's choice to have his models parade around this installation is not insignificant. It is not merely a visual backdrop, but an aesthetic gesture in itself: inserting fashion into a space for contemplation, blurring the lines between spectacle and exhibition.
As Emma Lavigne explains in the press release: “Céleste Boursier-Mougenot’s work confronts the viewer with the immensity of the moment, where time seems suspended.” This is precisely what Vaccarello offers with this collection. Each passing model becomes an inflection in the sensory continuum, a pause in the external tumult.
Among the guests—Francis Ford Coppola, Sam Rockwell, Rami Malek—one sensed the coherence of a cast geared toward narrative depth. It wasn't an ostentatious celebration, but a suspended, almost liturgical moment. The clinking of porcelain bowls echoed the folds of the fabric; pastel hues reflected on the blue water of the pool; the light from the dome played with the shadows of the models. A subtle staging where nothing disturbed the contemplation.
