The Face Magazine: Culture shift

Some magazines quietly fade into obscurity. Others leave an indelible mark on history. The Face belongs to this second category. From February 20 to May 18, 2025, the National Portrait Gallery in London will dedicate an immersive exhibition to it: "The Face Magazine: Culture Shift." More than just a look back at its glory days, this retrospective is a sensory immersion into the visual culture of the 80s and 90s. At that time, print media still dared to be a testing ground for artistic and social experimentation.

'Girls on Bikes (Sarf Coastin')' by Elaine Constantine, styled by Polly Banks, published in The Face, December 1997 © Elaine Constantine

Capturing the energy of a generation

From the very first rooms, visitors feel the effervescence of those decades. The raw, vibrant images tell the story of youth in all its freedom and carefree spirit. The Face captured this pulse with remarkable accuracy. The magazine revealed to the world a young Kate Moss, then far removed from the perfect standards of fashion. This imperfect beauty became the embodiment of grunge style.

Behind these iconic covers lay a strong will: highlighting the talents of tomorrowUnderground musicians, avant-garde creators, rising icons… All found their place under the lens of visionary photographers. Sheila Rock, with her electrifying shots of the punk scene, or Corinne Day, capturing the unvarnished vulnerability of a generation, are striking examples.
that The Face "It was an alternative. An opening onto worlds little explored by traditional media," explains Lee Swillingham, former art director of the magazine.

A scenography that awakens the senses

Under the direction of Sabina Jaskot-Gill, with the collaboration of Swillingham and photographer Norbert Schoerner, the exhibition avoids static nostalgia. Each room recreates the rebellious atmosphere of the magazine. Visitors are immersed in the gritty sounds of the 80s and the bold typography of Neville Brody. His graphic work, revolutionary at the time, redefined the codes of editorial design.

In this retrospective, fashion engages in a dialogue with the street. Art flirts with provocation. Elaine Constantine immortalizes the raw energy of early rave parties. David Sims, for his part, captures spontaneous expressions, transforming anonymous individuals into icons.

Alexander McQueen photographed in 'The Dark Knight Returns' by Sean Ellis, styled by Isabella Blow, August 1998 © Sean Ellis

A bold press that has become rare

Yet, one question remains: what became of this press that dared to provoke and spark debate? In the age of instant, over-consumed images, The Face reminds us that visuals can be an act of resistance. “Fashion was a pretext. What mattered was the attitude, the way we looked at the world,” insists Schoerner. This vision resonates in every portrait on display, bearing witness to an era when young people created their own culture instead of simply following it.

Relaunched in 2019, the magazine is attempting to recapture its rebellious spirit. But the exhibition highlights what constituted its original strength: a total freedom of experimentation . Brody's bold choices, unconventional subjects, and raw aesthetic remain sources of inspiration even today.

Between homage and inspiration for tomorrow

The exhibition is accompanied by a rich publication, blending exclusive interviews with Nick Logan, the magazine's founder, and analyses by major figures like Ekow Eshun. But it is in front of the images, in the hushed silence of the galleries, that the magic truly happens. The youthful faces and stolen moments reveal that unique creative spark that The Face knew so well how to capture.

This retrospective transcends a nostalgic tribute. It invites us to rethink the present and reinvent the future. When culture and fashion meet without compromise, they once again challenge conventions.

Kylie Minogue photographed by Norbert Schoerner, styled by Adam Howe, June 1994 © Norbert Schoerner

Experiences and a culture that define us

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